Review: Empress 1908 Gin

The gin named after Victoria, Canada, pays homage to the Empress Hotel in Victoria, British Columbia, built in 1908 as its label proudly displays. One of its standout botanicals is the Empress black tea blend, echoing the hotel's signature, while its royal blue-purple hue, courtesy of butterfly pea blossoms, adds a regal touch to its presentation.

The defining characteristic of this gin is its indigo color, perfect for creating visually stunning cocktails without veering into sweetness. However, this hue is fleeting; the deeper the color, the fresher the bottle, as the blue tends to fade over time.

Citrus and Spice

Taking a sip straight, this gin's astringent nature is quite pronounced, with a bit more heat than ideal for sipping even after a few minutes on ice.

On the nose, floral notes dominate, thanks to the tea and rose petal, perhaps with a hint of pea blossoms, accompanied by a subtle citrus and juniper essence. Underlying dark berries and a touch of spice, including hints of ginger, coriander, and cinnamon, add depth.

Taste-wise, the heat comes first, followed by citrus, juniper, and spice. Tart grapefruit zest blends sharply with juniper before the gin's spiciness takes over, with clear ginger notes, a touch of cinnamon, and a solid presence of coriander. While the tea contributes to the depth of the flavor, its floral notes are more noticeable in the aroma than in the taste. The finish is marked by the astringent heat of the ethanol base, leaving a lasting impression.

The texture is thin and sharp, not quite lending itself to sipping but holding promise for mixing. The color-changing effect with varying acidity levels in mixed drinks adds to its appeal.

While it doesn't excel as a classic martini gin, it does add a visually appealing twist. It truly shines in a Gin and Tonic, particularly with Fever Tree’s Mediterranean tonic or San Pellegrino Oakwood tonic, where its spice and tea elements shine alongside the bright grapefruit notes.

I found this gin quite delightful. Besides its strikingly beautiful color, it stands out in various intriguing ways. It embodies a distinctly modern character, exuding brightness with a citrusy flair, complemented by prominent hints of rose and lavender. While I wouldn't describe it as exceptionally smooth, it also doesn't come across as harsh. In my opinion, there are superior gins available at lower prices, yet this remains a fun and effortlessly enjoyable choice for a drink.